Set on the 26th floor overlooking the gorgeous Sydney harbour and Opera House, Oncore by Clare Smyth is the newest and most highly prestigious restaurant to grace the Sydney food scene. From the gloomy skies of London to sunny beach-y Sydney, Clare brings with her wonder-gazing dishes that focus on enhancing simple, everyday ingredients, like the potato. It felt like an honour to eat the beautiful creations of the first female 3 Michelin star chef.
We dined here on Wednesday 27th April with S&T. I made a reservation 1.5 months in advance. We got the set menu for $300 pp.
We dined here on Wednesday 27th April with S&T. I made a reservation 1.5 months in advance. We got the set menu for $300 pp.
Starters
As we were guided to our seats, the kitchen staff all paused in unison, looked up at us and greeted “Welcome to Oncore” 😍.
We liked that Clare incorporated her experience of Gordan Ramsay’s style by including extra dishes not written on the menu (the starters). It was a nice surprise and made the overall meal feel worth the spend. The starters arrived together, with a vocal guide on what order to consume them.
We liked that Clare incorporated her experience of Gordan Ramsay’s style by including extra dishes not written on the menu (the starters). It was a nice surprise and made the overall meal feel worth the spend. The starters arrived together, with a vocal guide on what order to consume them.
The first was the pumpkin gougère, a one-biter and mouth filling chomp of the most savoury and creamiest pumpkin we have ever had. Gougère is a French cheese puff so it made sense the texture was both a thick, creamy pumpkin soup and that of melted cheese. Every corner of our mouths was caressed by the filling. And encasing this oozing pumpkin was a soft crisp shell.
Next was this jellied eel, toasted nori and malt vinegar. W-o-w-z-e-r! 😍 A complete 180 to the previous starter with this cold and refreshing one-biter of sweet umami goodness. The nori was a soft crunch with an oceanic salt flavour and contrasted nicely with the jiggly and soft texture of the filling. The eel flavour was moderately subtle, which suited the sweet tones of this starter.
We loved the display of this smoked duck wings, with orange and cardamom. The duck was refined and tender, hitting us with a warm and intense salty flavour while its flesh melted away between each bite. Psst, it was a good amount of salt. The orange peaked through moderately and the cardamom was light; both elevating the duck nicely in a unique smokey way 👌🏻.
This last starter, the chicken liver parfait from Madeira was a bang of a finish. It was another intense flavour bomb with an overwhelmingly delicious earthy-meat flavour. It had a nice balance of sweetness and salt among its smooth texture. It went really well with the light and soft-crispy tart; a neutral doughy-flavoured holder. It was a unanimous “wow 🤤” around the table, especially for its presentation.
Fundamentals
What is fine dining without the staple bread and butter? This was their house-made malted sourdough using a 21-year-old starter, with cultured salted butter. So simple yet so good. The bread was soft and airy. The butter was smooth and creamy.
It was nice to see Oncore adopt the same principle of abundance of fundamentals like Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Tetsuya. This is god tier ⭐. The servers were not stingy to give us a second, third and fourth serving of bread, and butter. They were even encouraging us to have another serving 😋.
It was nice to see Oncore adopt the same principle of abundance of fundamentals like Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Tetsuya. This is god tier ⭐. The servers were not stingy to give us a second, third and fourth serving of bread, and butter. They were even encouraging us to have another serving 😋.
Entrée
Now on to the items actually on the menu 😂. Our first entrée was the kingfish. The presentation was absolutely stunning with the mixture of real fauna and succulents surrounding the dish.
There was a gentle pause before the “pour”, which happened simultaneously around the table. This was another aspect we loved about Restaurant Gordan Ramsay (LINK) that we’re glad to see practised in Sydney. Every dish had a “pour”.
The kingfish was fresh, cold, and had a mildly sweet and neutral fishy taste. The garnish of radish and perilla added earthy tones and refreshing piques to the bite. And the sea vegetable nage (broth) was perfectly flavoured with herbs and a touch of lemon to elevate the kingfish flavour. It was a complex and great palate cleanser.
There was a gentle pause before the “pour”, which happened simultaneously around the table. This was another aspect we loved about Restaurant Gordan Ramsay (LINK) that we’re glad to see practised in Sydney. Every dish had a “pour”.
The kingfish was fresh, cold, and had a mildly sweet and neutral fishy taste. The garnish of radish and perilla added earthy tones and refreshing piques to the bite. And the sea vegetable nage (broth) was perfectly flavoured with herbs and a touch of lemon to elevate the kingfish flavour. It was a complex and great palate cleanser.
The potato and roe is Clare’s signature dish and the potato of my dreams 😍🤤✨. Created from humble beginnings, she transformed this ordinary potato into one of the best potatoes we have ever had and possibly will ever eat.
The potato was roasted to perfection. It was dense while also being soft and airy at the same time, like a potato that had been turned to mash and back into its original shape. The seaweed beurre blanc sauce (also poured live for theatrics) was so creamy and rich in flavours that it coated our mouths and left this mouthwatering salty residue behind. We licked our plates clean with the extra bread.
The garnishes were purposeful, focusing on “cheaper” roe like herring and trout to stick to the story behind this dish. It was created to represent Clare’s upbringing on her family farm in North Ireland. There were also tiny salt and vinegar crisps, adding a pleasant crunch to the bite.
The potato was roasted to perfection. It was dense while also being soft and airy at the same time, like a potato that had been turned to mash and back into its original shape. The seaweed beurre blanc sauce (also poured live for theatrics) was so creamy and rich in flavours that it coated our mouths and left this mouthwatering salty residue behind. We licked our plates clean with the extra bread.
The garnishes were purposeful, focusing on “cheaper” roe like herring and trout to stick to the story behind this dish. It was created to represent Clare’s upbringing on her family farm in North Ireland. There were also tiny salt and vinegar crisps, adding a pleasant crunch to the bite.
Next was the murray cod with grilled mussels, leek, fennel, and Irish moss.
This was an umami bomb 🤤. The fish was cooked to perfection, having a dense yet tender mouthfeel. The use of mussels as a salt enhancement was a first for us. It tasted so different but so natural at the same time. Absolutely delicious! It gave the overall dish a harmonious oceanic flavour profile. And again, the presentation was beautiful.
This was an umami bomb 🤤. The fish was cooked to perfection, having a dense yet tender mouthfeel. The use of mussels as a salt enhancement was a first for us. It tasted so different but so natural at the same time. Absolutely delicious! It gave the overall dish a harmonious oceanic flavour profile. And again, the presentation was beautiful.
Main Course
This was lamb carrot, a tribute to the vegetable. Served with sheep’s milk yoghurt and a warm bread stuffed with lamb, this was a well balanced and deliciously savoury dish.
The spotlight was solely on the carrot, with its natural sweetness cutting through the gamey taste of the lamb and yoghurt. It had a firm and tender texture, with delicate carrot pesto laid beautifully on top. I really enjoyed this one 😚. The lamb was also juicy and tender, with a lot of its fat rendered.
The spotlight was solely on the carrot, with its natural sweetness cutting through the gamey taste of the lamb and yoghurt. It had a firm and tender texture, with delicate carrot pesto laid beautifully on top. I really enjoyed this one 😚. The lamb was also juicy and tender, with a lot of its fat rendered.
This bread stuffed with tender lamb pieces was scrumptious 😍. It was soft and fluffy, with a slight greasy mouthfeel and accented savoury flavours of lamb floss toppings. We used it all to soak up the carrot sauce.
Our main dish was the beef and oyster, a Blackmore wagyu beef steak with Sydney rock oyster, served with wagyu inside an oyster 😆. At this point, you already know I’m going to say d-e-l-i-c-i-o-u-s-!!! We would have never thought of such a combo and yet, it went together consummately.
The wagyu was a high grade, with multiple fatty layers making it a succulent and melt-in-your-mouth cut. The outer layer had been nicely grilled. The oyster elevated the savouriness of the bite wonderfully and added a touch of creaminess too.
The accompanying beef sauce was wagyu trim, mirepoix, Guinness, and stock. This was simply amazing. Of course, we licked this up with the extra sourdough bread.
The wagyu was a high grade, with multiple fatty layers making it a succulent and melt-in-your-mouth cut. The outer layer had been nicely grilled. The oyster elevated the savouriness of the bite wonderfully and added a touch of creaminess too.
The accompanying beef sauce was wagyu trim, mirepoix, Guinness, and stock. This was simply amazing. Of course, we licked this up with the extra sourdough bread.
This was beef ragu inside an oyster, with a dehydrated oyster chip. My gosh, every orifice in my mouth screamed heaven when these oily chunks of beef fat rubbed against it. It might have been because we’ve been on a boiled chicken diet these past few weeks but hnnngggg this was good 😍. The chip was a soft crunch, with a mild salty taste, thanks to the seaweed.
Desserts
This apple was everywhere on Instagram this year. The famous core apple, inspired by the childhood of toffee apple, was made with a caramelised apple centre, apple mousse, and apple jelly.
This was fruity and refreshing, with just the right amount of sweetness. The apple mousse was airy and light, balanced by the concentrated apple-flavour jelly. You’d think with all the apple elements it would be overwhelming but instead, this was one of the most delightful and yummiest desserts we’ve had.
This was fruity and refreshing, with just the right amount of sweetness. The apple mousse was airy and light, balanced by the concentrated apple-flavour jelly. You’d think with all the apple elements it would be overwhelming but instead, this was one of the most delightful and yummiest desserts we’ve had.
**Heavy breathing** Wow, what a dish! 😍😍 This was core teser, chocolate, hazelnut and malt dessert, presented on a beautiful cloud. The plate itself was quite heavy, made with glass to capture the fluffy white feathers trapped inside.
This was moderately sweet and rich, with lots of contrasting textures from the soft cream filling to the hard chocolate feathers and the dryish honeycomb base. This was definitely a chocolate lover’s dream come true 😍. It was a showstopper of a dish to end the night.
This was moderately sweet and rich, with lots of contrasting textures from the soft cream filling to the hard chocolate feathers and the dryish honeycomb base. This was definitely a chocolate lover’s dream come true 😍. It was a showstopper of a dish to end the night.
Finally, to end any tasting menu, we had the petit four. This was Rutherglen and noble 1 wine jellies. Both were strong drops of alcohol in a slightly cool jelly form. The presentation was very unique and beautiful.
We were also served lavendar tart. The lavender flavour was very mild, overshadowed by the cream milk chocolate filling and flour of the crispy shell.
Drinks
I ordered the smoked whiskey cocktail and wow, I’m sad I didn’t write down the full name because this was one of the best whiskeys I’ve ever had. Highly recommend it! 😍 Mick ordered a few whiskeys on the rocks.
Service
The service was impeccable. There was not a single fault. The staff were friendly, polite, attentive, efficient and all working in unison, as if in a rhythmic dance. This was on par to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Tetsuya’s.
Interior
We’re going to include this section because the interior design of Oncore was breathtaking. Described as aristocratic nature 🍃.
There was an open kitchen, a hallway full of in-house grown herbs and plants, this artesian bookshelf, a tree trunk carved into the ceiling, and of course, the stunning view of the Sydney harbour.
We were seated near the kitchen so it was too awkward and dark to take a photo of the ceiling-to-floor window so I will include one in our next visit in June (LINK coming soon).
There was an open kitchen, a hallway full of in-house grown herbs and plants, this artesian bookshelf, a tree trunk carved into the ceiling, and of course, the stunning view of the Sydney harbour.
We were seated near the kitchen so it was too awkward and dark to take a photo of the ceiling-to-floor window so I will include one in our next visit in June (LINK coming soon).
Review
This was the pinnacle of dining in Sydney. Every element, from the introduction to the food to the servers and setting, was carefully considered to maximise the best dining experience. The gastronomy in this set menu was a phenomenon.
For your next splurged meal, we recommended getting a reservation with Oncore. Bookings open on the 1st of the month so you have to be quick. We already have another visit planned in June, stay tuned 🤭.
Until then, thank you for reading. Happy eating!
For your next splurged meal, we recommended getting a reservation with Oncore. Bookings open on the 1st of the month so you have to be quick. We already have another visit planned in June, stay tuned 🤭.
Until then, thank you for reading. Happy eating!
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